Sabah Ultra 2011 - 100km Trail - The Most Beautiful Thing

There was an ultra trail run held over the weekend in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah.  It was divided into three categories, you could do either the 25km route, 50km route or 100km route.  I did the 100km route. It started from somewhere called Kg Rajunan (I think) and finishing in Pukak Kadai.

 

Sabah Ultra 100km Trail Route map.

Most of the participants arrived on Friday, as the race started on Saturday for everyone.  The 50km and 100km-ers were flagged off together from CP1, where as the 25km-ers started off from CP3 which is Kg Bundu (I think).  We started off at 7am on Saturday.

Even from the starting line, you get a beautiful mountain view like this.

Beautiful backdrop

The whole route consists of 10 check points (but CP10 is not your finishing) and in between there were 2 cut off points.  I needed to get to CP3 in 8 hours and then CP8 in 24 hours. I had no game plan really, on how I was going to clear these check points. Let alone actually finish the whole 100k.  I can honestly tell you,  that I was severely undermileage in terms of training and that other than that one time I went to Nuang, and frequent visits to Kiara,  nothing had prepared me for Sabah's terrain.  I had no idea how much trouble I was in. Although the route is basically running from one village to another village, the JOURNEY from one village to another village was really something.  When I got to CP1,  I got a pleasant surprise that it was Steph and John who was manning that check point.  YAY!



Steph, John, Me, Terence and Tony!

I was very lucky, in that I had Terence, Tony and Ah Fatt for company.  However, I had been slowing them down, as I couldn't really run.  I was brisk walking most of the time.  I was wearing the NB Minimus MT10, which I knew would kill me on the gravel road, but I had no time to buy a new shoe and break it in. So I had to take my chances with the minimus.  By the time we finally reached CP2, Tony and Ah Fatt decided to gun for it,  to make it to CP5 before cut off.  Tony advised me to reach 30km by 2pm and if possible CP7 by 11pm.  I said thanks and off he went.  Thereafter I had Terence accompanying me all the way until CP5.  Terence is really a God send.  He is someone whom I've seen always sacrificing his own personal timing and goal just to make sure the last person crosses the finish line.  This time he sacrificed for me.  I am more than indebted to him.  Terence made sure I reached CP5.

From CP2 to CP5, it was quite an interesting route.  We crossed a few hanging bridges and waist deep river streams.  We climbed hills and ran past paddy fields.

Nobody realised this, but during briefing the night before, when Aman and Claus explained there would be hanging bridges and river crossings, I was actually crying silently.  I have a fear of heights which most people don't know. And I have a phobia of wooden bridges.  On two separate occasions,  a plank broke under my weight and I went in the drain.  Another time, half of the plank broke and my left leg went in and I was dangling.  Anyhow,  I was lucky to have Terence and he taught me how to tackle the hanging bridges so I managed to get through all of them safely. 

When we finally reached CP5, it was about 8pm ish. As you know the sun sets in Sabah earlier,  it's already dark by 6pm.   Tony and Adeline were still there waiting for Terence to reach. CP5 is where you finish for 50km-ers.  And so this was the end of the journey for Terence.   Tony and Adeline was also in the 50km category.  This meant from here on,  I will be on my own.  Tony, Adeline and Terence advised me to stop.  Since it is really dark, it's dangerous and I will be alone. Plus the issue that I didn't bring my phone.  I couldn't call anyone if something happened.   I didn't bring the phone because I didn't have time to source for a cheap phone.  I didn't want to bring the BB as I did for Sundown Ultra and the phone couldn't start after the race.  I basically took a huge risk for being phoneless in Sabah Ultra.

After eating some rice and chicken, I changed socks and repacked my bag. Terence had wanted to give me his water reservoir,  as I discovered my Camelbak was leaking water at CP3.  I was actually carrying a useless Camelbak.  I decided not to switch water reservoirs.  Just rely on the bottled waters.  Took 3 bottles and off I went.  I wasn't exactly alone. I found Sunny and Serkawi was also trying to reach CP6, so we went off together.  At first I was faster,  but eventually I needed Sunny to help me climb the hill after those steps on the way to CP6.   It was really damn dark. I was using the free Energizer headlamp from the Energizer run.

When we finally found CP6, it turned out to be someone's house. From the back of his house, is where we used the steep narrow ridges which were pineapple plantations, to get to CP6A's loop, which turned out to be a really dense primary forest.  Rain had started pouring down.  As you can guess, it was really slippery and muddy and extremely dangerous. One wrong step and you will roll all the way down.  And I mean all the way down.

 Don't be deceived, I took this picture sitting down. On the left are rocks and the right are paddy fields. But these are ridges cut into the hills.  At any one time, only one can go. If you need to cross, I need to stop lean to the side and let you cross first. Or we'll both roll down.  When we finally cleared the steep narrow ridges,  it was time to descend with slippery muddy trails like this.

Again, my line of sight was probably only 5 meters visibility in front?  We were very very very slow. Very careful not to slip and roll down.  At one point, we were tired, so we stopped and sat for a minute. I took out Allan's Garmin and saw that we've been climbing like this?

On our way in,  many were already on their way out, and we were advised that the bamboo bridge and the other metal bridge were very slippery.  There were also 2 river crossings in and another 2 coming out.



I have no idea how I found the energy to keep hauling myself up, this picture doesn't do justice, but as steep a descend it was going down, it's also the same steep ascend going back up. I basically clawed my way out using the tree roots.

 It took forever in the dark but when we FINALLY found CP6A, it was about 3.5 hours later from the time we went in at CP6.  In total it took about SEVEN hours to get from CP6 to CP6A then back to CP6 which doubles as CP7 when you return.  SEVEN hours.  In the muddy slippery dark.  Just for one loop.  You tell me how?

When we reached CP7,  it was about 4am.  I had three hours to find CP8 if I wanted to make the 7am cut off.  There, Sunny and Serkawi stopped. It's also where I found Paul by accident.  I had no idea that he also withdrew. My heart sank. If even Paul withdrew, what chance do I have? But I was adamant on trying, as there's still another 3 hours.  Paul encouraged me to go for it.  So I did.

From then on, I was entirely alone.

It took me about an hour to get down from CP7 to the foothill where you will meet the sandy construction area.  Why? Because I took the steps down. I know Paul said to go straight and not the steps, but the map showed to go back where you came from.  So I stubbornly did not listen to Paul and took the steps down.   I knew that once I reach the foothill, I can start running again. I just needed to turn right because CP5 was on the left. Once I cleared the steps I tried to start running, but it was dark and I couldn't see properly.  After just about 10mins,  two cars came by, and it was them from CP7.  They've bundled into the car and they're going back to base.  They tried to persuade me to come into the car as well.  But I didn't want to.  I STILL wanted to try to make it to CP8.  I know they are worried about me, but seriously,  if I DNF-ed because I was incapable of reaching CP8 in time, then I would accept defeat.  But if you're asking me to DNF just because it is dark and I am alone? I cannot accept. I've lived my whole life in darkness and loneliness. I still want to try.

I was running about another hour in the dark and my headlamp was getting dim.  I prayed to God please let the sun come up earlier, please.  Please let me clear CP8, please please please.   Eventually the sun came up.  I could see better now.  So I ran faster.  CP7 to CP8 was probably the ONLY time I really ran my heart out. I had to force myself to run as by now I was wearing a normal watch. I didn't know my pace or how many kilometers more I needed to cover.  And then, I came across this landslide. It blocked the road. I was jammed for a moment.  I really didn't want to go all the way back to CP5 and ask for help.  And Aman Avtar will not care there was a landslide blocking your way.  If you looked left, it was the river and the current was strong. Then I saw footprints on the soil and realised others had climbed over it.  So I did that too.  This was another risky move, if the soil moved under my weight. I will be part of the landslide or into the river.  But I took it and got over the other side safely.

I ran straight all the way till the end and came across this thing.  It was after the hydro electric station thingy.

I knew I didn't come from here on saturday. And I didn't want to cross the river myself.  I backtracked and finally saw what I missed.  The bridge.

Crossed the bridge.  And then I forgot if I'm supposed to turn left or right.  I turned left at first. Ran up the incline.  Didn't see any orange markers.  Ran down back to the bridge.  Still didn't recognise the path.  Ran back up the incline again.  THEN I saw the gate.  Recognised the gate, went through the gate,  followed the orange markers that went through the field. AND THEN I SAW PEOPLE wearing the white TMBT shirt and I started shouting "Are you CP8?!! Are you CP8?!!!!!!"  They started clapping and I rannnnnnnnn!!! I was SO HAPPY I reached it in time!!! My watch showed 6:46am. I managed to scrape through the 7am cut off.

I counted there were 8 people chilling at CP8. I was the LAST ONE to check in and meet the cut off.  I quickly took some more water and ran off.  I had a shot at finishing!!! I had a shot of not being last!!! YES YES YES!!! Let's go!!!  What I failed to realise,  is that those 8 people had the chance to rest. I think they also had the chance to sleep.  I didn't. I've been on the go since 7am on saturday and it's now 24 hours later.   I only managed to stay ahead until CP9.

 
One by one, they caught up to me after CP9.  And in the end I became third last.  Oh well.

Apart from the reason that the minimus was hurting alot on the gravel, was also the back of the shoe that was pressing against my heel.  That middle part of the heel of the shoe there,  the texture is really hard.

I think it's a default in the shoe, because the left shoe doesn't press the heel of my left foot.  Only this right shoe does.  It hurt so badly by this time, for a while I was walking with this.

After a few kilometers,  a kind samaritan named Albert who is part of the SAC team stopped and lent me his sandals.

It was kinda oversized but if not for Albert, I wouldn't even last until CP10.   The road to CP10 was really mental. Simply because it was a never ending road of gravel, ascending then descending, ascending descending. And ascending then descending and ascending then descending and over and over and over again. I had another 20km to go.

But along the way, I was rewarded with a view like this.  I'm glad that I went through this route during the day. If I was so fast, and did it at night, I'd be missing this view.  This was simply an amazing view of the mountains.  My photo doesn't do justice since I didn't know how the heck to paste a panoramic picture together.

When I finally reached CP10,  I had taken about 3.5 hours from CP9.  By then I felt so dejected. I was in high spirits when I cleared CP8 and CP9, thinking I'd be done by afternoon. But I was so wrong.

I left CP10 after the medics there attended to my feet.  By then it was 2pm. I was greeted with another hanging bridge.

 And a steep incline.

I only had 5 hours left to walk the remaining rolling 12km hills from CP10 to the finishing line. You would think that is more than enough time.  But by this hour,  I could only do about 3-4kilometers per hour.  It was another never ending gravel.  Like the others, I was also looking for the finishing banner at any turning off the road.  But that fnishing banner never materialised.  Instead,  the ending was.... go into the jungle trail again.

Came out to ANOTHER hanging bridge.

By this time, I think there's been about 9 hanging bridges and obviously my phobia for them have diminished and I no longer fear heights with all the climbing I had to do.

After the last hanging bridge, I went into another trail which eventually led me to this school/clinic/hall and the FINAL ending was actually behind it, with a riverside for you to clean up.

I was very very very fortunate that I had Steph and John waiting for me to come out.  They had been waiting there since afternoon! Not knowing what time I will make it out. I didn't know that they would be there either.  And the whole time I was fighting through the night and the morning and the hot afternoon for a shot at finishing,  I was convinced nobody would realise that I'm still out there.  Later I learned, not only Steph and John waited for me at this finishing,  but back at the hotel, there were still good friends who checked every hour with each check point to find out where I am and whether I had returned or not.  Thank you all so much for that.

What are the most valuable lessons I have learnt from this race? It's not a race to help you achieve your dreams. It's not a race for first timers. It's not a race for you to mess around with, without training and expect to blaze through.  This race will either make you or break you. What it did for me? It really really really really really really really really forced me to be patient.  I finished with an official timing of 34 hours 41 mins.  I sincerely don't know how I could stand being out there for so long, just for a shot at finishing.  You need to remember, the longer you are out there, the more you suffer.  So if you're thinking of joining next year with the same game plan as me,  just walking it through,  I'd strongly advise you to think again.  This race is ABSOLUTELY mental. It is a mind game from the start to the finish.

All those times when I almost slipped and fell from the steep narrow ridges, seriously I was asking for trouble. I had no phone with me, I couldn't call for help. If you fall and you're alone, you can shout till the cows come home, but no one can hear you.  If you don't have a good sense of direction, you will get lost and it will cost you time. And three days later, I still have oedema.  Blood is not flowing normally up from my feet. They are still swollen.  The price you have to pay for 100k of banjaran crocker.

On a brighter side, this race has also changed me.  I am known to come back from races, shouting and cursing.  But when I came back for this one,  I was just so relieved it was finally over. I didn't even run to the finishing line to "finish strong". I didn't strangle Aman as I originally planned. Instead,  I smiled for Steph's video. I just walked to the finish line. Got my finisher medal. And I managed to have a calm conversation with Aman and say positive things.


This is my second 100km race this year. And my fourth ultra distance this year.  How do I feel? Nothing. Absolutely nothing. I still feel empty.

Nevertheless, congrats to each and everyone of us who signed up for this adventure. Regardless of whether you finished or didn't finish, we still had the chance to run through banjaran crocker which under normal circumstances, we wouldn't be coming through here at all.  We experienced what the village folks use on a daily basis. We saw things we would never see back in KL.


Till the next one.........